This would be where I created the guard on the sword. This slid up to where I wanted my handle and sword to join. Now that I had the length correct I created a flat oval disc from foam and cut a slit into. The Sintra is secured to the wood with Contact Cement (I used two long pieces to overlap with the Sintra Handle and Composite Wood Blade for stability). I used the Sintra to add more height to the top portion of the wood composite (double or triple your Sintra for strength). Next I cut out 1 piece of sintra that matched the height and width of my 2x2x4 piece of composite wood. This gave me the proper length of the sword (since Yojimbo's sword is about as high as his chin). Acrylic Paints (discussed in section 5) įor starters, I measured my height from below my chin to my feet.2x2x4 made of lightweight wood or other composite material.We'll discuss painting the pauldrons in Section 5 but I will say I used one coat of Metallic Gold Spray Paint and a WHOLE LOT of Metallic Gold Acrylic, Black and Red Paints. It also helps me add shadows.Īnd that's it. I like doing this as it creates a clean painting surface for me. Allow your wood glue to dry overnight (8 hours) before proceeding with Plasti-Dip. I allowed this product to dry for 12 hours before applying two thin coats of wood glue. To solve this problem I watered down KwikSeal in a paint palette then painted on a thin coat of the silicone sealant. It also stretches REALLY far so there were a few bumps where I had knicked it or accidentally stuck it to something and stretched it out. Worbla's KobraCast Art, when stretched, creates this mesh texture. Once I had both pauldrons assembled wanted to smooth out the surface. It will be a bit squishy after it dries but it is much faster then trying to use Bondo, Wood Filler or Caulking. To fill in gaps/holes I used Foam-Mo Air Dry Foam Clay. Thankfully it is just as reusable as the Original Art so if you mess up, just heat the piece up, roll it out, flatten it and let it cool. I will warn that this thermoplastic has a MUCH LOWER heat activation than typical Worbla's Original Art. This made assembling the pauldrons a lot faster and easier than expected. Worbla's KobraCast Art adheres to itself so, when warm, you can stick parts to one another. Once I had the shape I wanted I took one strip of foam at a time, wrapped it in Worbla's KobraCast Art (using a heat gun on a low setting to heat the material so it was malleable) then held it in the curve I wanted until it cooled. I laid out the strip design in foam first (using painter's tape as a stabilizer). Yojimbo's pauldrons have a mix of soft and hard surface modeling so I had to find a method of balancing that by layering my strips in angles. I start by cutting out strips of EVA foam so I can build up the shape of the pauldrons.
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